The churches in the province of Cagayan Valley in Northern Luzon are like gateways to the past.

With structures dating as far back as the 1600’s, these buildings have become silent sentinels of the country’s saga – witnessing significant events such as world wars, national uprisings, and shifts of power.

Today, these churches have labeled Cagayan Valley as a destination of choice not only for various religious holidays such as Holy Week every summer, but as places of interest for people who wish to know more about the country’s past.

In a recent event called 2010 Lakbay Norte, sponsored by the North Philippines Visitors Bureau, members of the media toured seven churches from different towns around Cagayan Valley and saw some of the most beautiful structures that side of the region.

Know more of the past and plan a Visita Iglesia in Northern Cagayan. Allot a whole day to cover seven cathedrals and discover how the region’s devotion to faith helped preserve valuable pieces of Philippine history.

St. Peter and Paul Church in Tuguegarao

Those planning to conduct their Visita Iglesia in Cagayan Valley should consider beginning their journey in Tuguegarao – the capital city of Cagayan. Patrons can find a hotel to stay in case they decide to spend the night. Tuguegarao is almost 10 hours away from Manila, and one would probably need to rest first before heading back to the city.

While in Tuguegarao, plan a visit to St. Peter and Paul Cathedral, the city’s official seat for its Archdiocese. The church’s structure is no longer the original building, but it tells of a significant piece of history. It was known as the site for the city’s first mission-pueblo, wherein Spanish priests set up to begin converting the locals to the Christian religion. Since the province didn’t have any patron saint, the Dominican friars decided that Saints Peter and Paul will be their official patrons. The original building was severely damaged during World War II.

Basilica Minore in Piat

The Piat Cathedral is known as the most popular church in the province of Cagayan. The church is home to Our Lady of Piat, the famous black image of the Virgin Mary also known as the Lady Visitation and Lady of the Holy Rosary, which came from Macau in 1604.

The image is perceived to be the original figure used by Domincan priests to convert the locals to Christianity. Many devotees feel a personal connection to the Lady’s image. In fact, different families take charge of the Lady’s garments every year to be used during the church feast in the month of June.

The image is deemed miraculous, and many of its devotees flock to the basilica for the Piat Sumbali Festival, which reenacts warrior dances before they were converted to the Christian religion.

St. James Church in Iguig

Behind the unassuming façade of the St. James Church in Iguig is a beautiful hilly terrain showcasing one of the most spectacular views of the Cagayan River.

The grassy area is called Calvary Hills – a popular destination of devotees during Holy Week. As the name connotes, Calvary Hills is a live stage depicting a life-size display of the 14 Stations of the Cross.

Calvary Hills is set 30-feet above the shore of the Cagayan River, so one has a commanding view of the expanse of the famous body of water.

St. Philomene in Alcala

The red-brick church in Alcala, Cagayan Valley, is known to be the widest and biggest brick church in the Philippines – measuring 67 m in length, 24 m in width, and 12.5 m in height.

The vast red brick church stands out from the surrounding green landscape. The façade of the church is plain brick, with little ornamentation other than its columns, niches, and windows. Because of its width, the church has four rows of pews.

The original features of the façade have been preserved, although most of the structure has been renovated after surviving various calamities such as the ravages of war. The church dates as far back as 1881.

San Jacinto de Polonia Parish Church

This church is historical because of its bell tower, known to be home of the oldest bell in Southeast Asia. The bell, made of iron, is placed on top of a red brick tower. Text etched on the bell show that it was forged in 1595. Other writings can be seen on the bell, but historians failed to translate its meaning.

At the back of the bell tower, just beyond the school situated beside it, are the beautiful ruins of the original San Jacinto de Polonia Church. After World War II, the place was left devastated, and only the iron bell and a few brick columns survived.

Just a few minutes away is a well-preserved giant oven – used during the Spanish times to bake bricks.

St. Dominic Church Lal-lo

The Mayor of Lal-lo, Olivia Pascual, said that the St. Dominic Church is the original home of the Our Lady of Visitation, now known as the Lady of Piat. The baroque-style structure was constructed in the 1600s and was then known as the Church of Nuevo Segovia.

“The Lady of Piat was borrowed by other churches before to help stop clan wars in the province of Cagayan. The image was never returned to us, but the people of Lal-Lo are fine with it. Other people need the help of the Lady more than us,” she said.

The beautiful church is situated in front of the Cagayan River. Its rustic architecture is well-preserved, making the St. Dominic Church one of the most charming church stops in the region.

Church of Masi in Pamplona

The Church of Masi is considered one of the oldest in Cagayan, its construction completed in 1617.

Just like the other churches, the Church of Masi was also constructed using red bricks.

The old bells used when it was newly-constructed are now situated in front of the church.

If you have more time, continue a northern Visita Iglesia and visit other historical churches such as those in Paoay and Vigan.

By PINKY CONCHA COLMENARES

Petron Lakeshore. (Photo by ANJO PEREZ)

Cruising has seen those service stations expand in number and in size. In the almost 11 years that Cruising has been “Going Places,” those gas stations have become our comfort zones. After hours on the road, the sight of a red star (Caltex), yellow shell (Shell), red and blue stylized P (Petron) or a red, blue and yellow sphere (TOTAL) always soothes us. That means that nearby (usually the signs for a service station appear two kilometers away) are clean restrooms, good food, well-stocked convenience store, coffee shops, an array of beverages, newspapers, magazines and maps.

We traced the North Luzon Expressway and the South Luzon Expressway to check what’s inside the service stations to help motorists plan the short stops in their summer trips. It’s no fun or comfort to stop at a station which is over-crowded, and you have to stand in long lines just to use the restroom or to checkout your food stuff in the convenience store. Its worst still if you decide to drive to the next station and that one is 20 kilometers away!

Since planning is a significant factor in a road trip, (it cuts time wasted on unplanned details and allows you to have more time for your holiday), check what you want to find in a service station. We have chosen to feature the major stations along the NLEX and SLEX.

NLEX Northbound

A Petron station, which seems to be the oldest in the expressway, is about 10 kilometers from the Balintawak tollway. This is a very busy service station, being the first one out of Quezon City. Perhaps it is also because motorists choose to miss breakfast or lunch before they drive out of the city and have it in this station. Our favorite here is Pancake House. Among the other restaurants there are Starbucks, Chow King and Jollibee. Of course, there’s Treats, the convenience store of Petron.

Twenty kilometers away from the Balintawak toll booth is the Shell NLT1 (CG & E Shell Station). It sprawls on a three-hectare property, so you can imagine how large the service station is. There are nine locators or restaurants here, aside from the kiosks – Chow King, Deli France, Jollibee, Kenny Rogers, KFC, Hen Lin, Dairy Queen, Cinnabon, Burger King.

The Shell Select covnenience store is well stocked. It boasts of having services that cars may need in a long trip. The restrooms, like most service stations now, are airconditioned and clean. There is a large lobby which becomes a venue for exhibits. When we were there, we were entertained by Joel Conde of Shell who was meeting with the Manila North Tollways Corp. on a project to put up a Travel Fair at the lobby.

The next service station is the Total Station (42 km from the Balintawak tollway). The charm of every Total station is the Bonjour Café located inside the Bonjour convenience store. The small area has the air of a French café, and the variety of pastries is classy, it’s nothing one expects along the long road. The restaurants in that Total service station are Chow King, Tapa King, Tropical Hut, Barbie’s Grill and Mina’s Restaurant.

Almost at the end of NLEX, after the San Fernando Exit, is Petron Lakeshore, which was opened only in 2006. It is 59 km from the Balintawak tollway. This sprawling structure has an inviting ambience and it must be popular among locals because the restaurants filled up during lunch. Anjo and I lunched at Apag Marangle (Hain sa Bukid), and were stuffed, we didn’t eat anything for the rest of the day! (They serve very good local cuisine.) Other restaurants in the station are Razon’s palabok and halo-halo, Kitaro, McDonald’s and Mocha Blends, said Armee Baraceros who entertained our queries. Of course, there’s a pasalubong kiosk (which is now standard in other service stations along both expressways).

The unique feature of Petron Lakeshore is a Furniture Outlet – which is a nice surprise to find in that part of the expressway. They, of course, deliver. There’s also the Lakeshore Marketing office whose posters advertise a property project nearby.

NLEX Southbound

We exited at Dau and found the first station to be Shell (six kilometers from Dau exit). We didn’t stop.

The next station is the Caltex Mega Station (19 km from the Dau exit). This huge service station deserves its name – mega station. It offers motorists more than just fuel and food. It is a mini-mall offering fun and shopping. There’s a Fun World park for kids with giant dinosaur statues in one side of the station, facing Jollibee. There are good shopping options offered by the Nike and Adidas factory outlets, a shop offering wooden furniture, and a flea market of local handicrafts and products selling from summer items (hats, sandals, shirts) to toys. Those in the mood to buy bikes can visit the Raptor’s Bike shop.

The restaurants in this station are KFC, Kenny Rogers, Razon’s, Chow King, Gloria Jean’s, Jollibee, Yellow Cab.

By the way, there’s a convenience store and clean restrooms – which used to be the main amenities in a service station.

The next station is the Petron Express Center II, a two-hectare property. It is operated by the Brent Oil Corp. This nine-year old station has nine locators: Starbucks, MacDonald’s, Pizza Hut, KFC, Dimsum & Dumplings, Max’s, Pancake House, Hot Shots Burger, Pasalubong Center, and Subway. There are several kiosks selling iced beverages and food items in the lobby.

The unique attraction of this station is its automatic car wash which can clean a vehicle in seven minutes for only P150. Since this is the last service station before entering Quezon City, some motorists who have appointments in the city stop to have their vehicles cleaned here, according to Wilbert Go, of Brent Oil, who met us there.

The NLEX is 84 kilometers, including a small segment of A. Bonifacio Avenue.

SLEX Southbound

The first service station after the Filinvest Exit is the Shell SLT1. This station opened in 1996 and occupies exactly 18,600 sqm. Since it’s the first station as one exits to SLEX, it is always full of motorists and that may be the reason why the lobby has become a display area for various products like cars and property development projects in the south.

It has the following locators: Deli France, Hen Lin, Greenwich, Jollibee with drive-thru, KFC, Cinnabon, Starbucks and Sumotori, said Royce Bonifacio, who met us there. The Shell Select convenience store is well-stocked. The airconditioned restrooms are clean.

The Petron Express Center III operated by Donna Yatco is the next station along that stretch of the SLEX. Opened in 1998, this station is has only three restaurants: McDonald’s, Pancake House and Starbucks. But the popularity of the station may be gauged through the sales of the locators. Ms. Yatco said that Pancake House and the Treats convenience store are the No. 1 in sales in the country in their respective specialties.

The Caltex South Hub opened in 2006. More popularly known as Caltex Mamplasan (that’s what we call it), there are six locators: MacDonald’s, Tokyo Tokyo, Seattle’s Best, Yellow Cab, Pasalubong Center and Mini Mart (Caltex’s convenience store).

SLEX Northbound

The biggest Total service station in the country stands along the SLEX northbound, after the Greenfield exit. The Total Station and the Bonjour convenience store and café are operated by 509 Motorist Service Center. The special amenity of this station is a business center with Internet access and a clinic. Although there’s no regular doctor or nurse in the clinic, a motorist can rest there, Ms. Thelma Miranda said.

Those who missed their favorite bowl of bulalo at Rose & Grace Restaurant in Sto. Tomas can have that in this station. Other restaurants there are: Chow King, Jollibee, Sakon Thai. There’s a Nike Factory Store, ATM machines for BPI and PS Bank, and an E-Pass load and kit machine.

Travelers who need to work on their laptops can do so with the free wi-fi service and the quiet ambience at Bonjour Café. Apparently, the station is a popular stop over because there will soon be a used car showroom there and another restaurant.

Following that biggest Total station is the biggest Shell service station in Asia, occupying five hectares. This is SLT2. Its unique feature is a 24-hour First Aid station and an airconditioned restroom styled like a resort spa toilet.

Its locators are KFC, Starbucks, Deli France, Pizza hut, Jollibee, Chow King, Rairaiken. The Select covnenience store is bigger than usual and has a wide selection of magazines. Inside the building are stalls selling local products of Liliw, Laguna. There is also a pasalubong center selling food stuff from around the country.

The biggest Caltex station in the country is after Shell’s biggest service station in Asia. The 3.6-hectare Caltex Mega Station is about 5 km from the Shell Station.

The locators are: McDonald’s, Hen Lin, Pancake House, Starbucks, KFC, Cinnabon, Aling Nena Pasalubong. The convenience store in this Caltex station is 7-11.

The SLEX is about 62 kilometers.

By Joseph T. Bautista

10:15 A.M.: Altar of Kawit Church.

I grew up in a small farm in a remote barrio of Ligas in Bacoor, Cavite. I was the first grandchild and was spoiled by my grandparents. We stayed in their house when I was young and my world revolved around playing in the farm with all the animals, climbing trees and listening to my Lolo Pedro telling me stories about the American and Japanese occupations.

My Lola Sinta sold vegetables in the Zapote Public Market, and occasionally she would take me to where she works. I enjoyed those occasions, particularly when she would give me a few centavos and I would treat myself with a bowl of lugaw or a slice of cassava cake.

The public market would become my playground and source of supplies. Even when I grew up, I always buy my stuff in the public market even if it is more convenient to shop at the supermarket or at the mall.

When I travel, the public market is my main source of information whenever I visit an unfamiliar place. It is where I discover unique food and products, where I get first-hand information about places to visit or to stay, and where I meet people who eventually become my friends.

I recently challenged myself to go on an adventure with only P500 in my wallet. My goal was to visit several coastal towns south of Manila Bay – revisit their public markets, rediscover their heritage sites, enjoy local food and rekindle the joy of using public transport. One day to recapture the fond memories of being a probinsyano.

PALANYAG or PARAŇAQUE

My first itinerary was to visit the coastal town of Parañaque. My folks still call it Palanyag even if the name had already been changed to Parañaque (“para na aqui”) more than 200 years ago.

I woke up quite early so that I will be able to catch the early morning fish trading or bulungan along the mouth of Parañaque River. By 5 a.m., I was already out of the house and was boarding my first jeepney of the day. In less than 20 minutes, I alighted at Parañaque Public Market where I had to traverse the dark P. Dandan street to reach the Bulungan center.

The Bulungan center was already bursting with activities when I arrived. There, fishermen from as far as Mindoro and Palawan bring their catch to be sold to wholesalers via the old bulungan or silent bid style. I wanted to take home some fresh mussels but I had to catch a jeepney to Zapote.

ZAPOTE

Zapote is an important gateway between Metropolitan Manila and the province of Cavite. In 1899, the mouth of the Zapote River was a site of the bloody battle between the Americans and the Filipino troops. Even today, the ruins of the old Zapote bridge which was destroyed by the Filipino troops headed by General Edilberto Evangelista still stands as a testament of the heroism of our forefathers against the colonizers.

Zapote started as one of the original fishing settlements on the mouth of the river. Nowadays, there are two barangays between the rivers named Zapote: Zapote Las Piñas and Zapote Kabila in Bacoor. There are also two big palengkes on both sides of the river. I decided to revisit my old playground in Kabila.

The public market in Zapote Kabila maintains its reputation as a trading center for agricultural products from the whole of Cavite. When I arrived at the market, I saw fresh coconuts from Silang, watermelons from Tanza, fish from Manila Bay and tinapa from Salinas, Rosario. I also visited my Aunt Julie who maintains a stall specializing in barbecue sticks coming from Bailen, Cavite.

I was already getting hungry, so I took my breakfast at a carinderia in Zapote market. I ordered menudo, tortang talong, rice and softdrink, and was given free sinigang soup. I finished everything in less than 10 minutes. I paid 70 pesos for this sumptuous meal.

BACOOR

From Zapote, I took a jeepney to Bacoor Poblacion to visit my old school. I spent my elementary school days at St. Michael’s Institute in Poblacion, and I remember participating in many parades to celebrate the Feast of San Miguel Archangel every September.

When I arrived at Poblacion, the road was closed. The jeepney driver told me that there was a parade. I alighted and decided to walk towards the centro. I was delighted to chance upon a parade participated in by students to celebrate the Feast of Sto. Niño. It brought back a lot of fond memories of my days in Bacoor.

When I arrived at my old school, I immediately climbed to the old convent to check my old school room. What I saw saddened me. The old school room is now abandoned and will soon be torn down to give way to a new building.

KAWIT

Kawit is best known as the site of the proclamation of Philippine Independence in June 12, 1898. The house of President Emilio Aguinaldo remains open (Tuesday to Sunday) for visitors to see where the first Philippine flag was raised and where Katipuneros conducted their secret meetings.

From the Aguinaldo Mansion, I took a short walk to the church of St. Mary Magdalene. The church was recently restored, and I was glad to see that centuries-old finely-crafted santos are now all finally resting on the golden retablos.

CAVITE CITY

From Kawit, I boarded a ‘baby’ bus to the old capital, Cavite City. As a student, I would often take these unique colourful buses, with its noisy engines, wooden benches, and loud stereos, to go to the Mercado del Ciudad to buy PX goods smuggled out of Sangley Point Naval Base.

As a Caviteño studying in Manila, our unofficial get-up was Levis jeans, Hanes T-Shirts and Hush Puppies loafers for easier distinction.

Cavite City has a very colorful history. The name Cavite originated from it unique shape: “Cauit” or hook shape. During the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade, Cavite la Punta became the point of entry and departure for many foreign travelers. The influx of mostly Spaniards and Mexican visitors helped developed Ciudad del Cavite’s unique language, Chavacano, cuisine of mostly Spanish and Mexican, and culture and tradition. Even today at the Mercado del Ciudad de Cavite, one can still buy tamales and quesilllo.

After the Spaniards left the Philippines, the Americans took over Cavite City and established one of its biggest Naval Base in Asia: the Sangley Point. For over 70 years, Cavite City was the original Olongapo, with its PX stores, bars and gambling houses.

When the American closed its naval base in 1971, Cavite City’s glory days ended. After 40 years, the city is practically a ghost town with many of its old houses and building now abandoned.

I recently re-discovered Cavite City after a friend suggested that I made a visit to check out stores selling antiques. When I arrived at one of the stores, I was surprised to see old furniture and art objects from the city’s rich past being sold at bargain prices. I fell in love once more with the city.

On a recent trip, I was able to retrace the location of an on carienderia which I used to frequent as a student. Asyong Carinderia, which was established in 1960, with its dining room interiors straight out of an old Sampaguita Pictures movie continue to serve old Spanish, Chinese, Filipino and American favorites such as bacalao, asado, kilawin and kare-kare at student-friendly prices.

On Sundays, the owner prepares the old family recipe desserts such as the cinnamon-rich apple pies and sinfully-delicious lemon pies.

TANZA and NAIC

From Cavite City, I took another ‘baby’ bus to Tanza. I was originally planning to visit the Salinas district in Rosario to see how tinapa and daing are being made. However, it was already past noontime and I figured that most of the tinapa makers were already dispersed all over the province selling their produce themselves.

The bus ride to Tanza proved quite interesting as I saw through my window the recent developments in these sleepy towns of Cavite. With the opening of several export processing zones more than two decades ago, the old rice fields are now replaced with factories, malls, mass housing and fast-food chains.

As soon as I entered the town center of Tanza, the landscape returned to the old poblacion scenery which I remember when I was young. Formerly known as Sta. Cruz de Malabon, Tanza was the site where Emilio Aguinaldo took oath at the first Philippine President on March 23, 1897 in the same convento that stood next to the church of Sta. Cruz.

Around Tanza poblacion stood many old houses dating back from the time of the revolucionarios. I would have wanted to try their famous pancit istasyon but I still have to catch another bus to Naic.

The town name Naic is actually an acronym of its old name: Nuesta Adorable Immaculada Concepcion. The church of Our Lady of Immaculate Concepcion has statues of the seven archangels around its patio. While in front of its old municipio stands two statues of Naic’s proud builders: the fisherman and the farmer.

MARAGONDON

From Naic, I took a jeepney to Maragondon. The town’s name originated from sound of water (“madagondong”) from the noisy river flowing down from the mountains of Sapang Palay to Manila Bay.

Founded in 1611, Maragondon used to be the biggest and most progressive town in south Cavite. The town formerly included Naic, which became a separate town in 1791, and Ternate, which became the settlement of the mardicas tribe driven out of Ternate Island in Moluccas in Indonesia.

It was already past 4 p.m. when I arrived in Maragondon, and the Bonifacio Trial House was already closed. I wanted to ask the museum curator about the exact location of Andres Bonifacio’s three final moments – “Pinaghulian”, “Pinaglitisan” and “Pinagbarilan” – as I was told that these are interesting walking trails.

I proceeded to the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion which was fortunately open when I arrived. The parish priest usually keeps the doors locked after the church was looted several years ago. I was pleased to see that many of its famed antique santos remained intact.

As I was going out of the church patio, I saw a group of old folks practicing the dance of the illustrados – the pasa doble. I also saw several young people trying to learn this dance. It made me smile. Somehow, I felt the old traditions and rituals of the Caviteños will continue as long as the young folks keep interest in our rich cultural heritage.

I took my last bus home as the sun started to set in Manila Bay. It was a beautiful sunset. As I reflected on the adventures of the day, I felt glad that I made this trip to rediscover my roots.

When I arrived home, tired but happy, I still had more than 50 pesos left from the 500 pesos I originally budgeted. Money well spent.

I first heard about Mt. Kinabalu from a roommate during my early college days at U.P. The guy was a geology major and he would always talk about places he wanted to go to someday, one of them was Mt. Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia. I found it quite interesting because almost every other week, my friend would come from a camping expedition from some mining fields and mountains as part of his class activities. I never heard from him after college and I’m not sure if he ever got to climb Mt. Kinabalu.

Just recently, I never imagined that I would be able to climb Mt. Kinabalu, Southeast Asia’s highest peak at 14,000 feet. The climb was one of the options offered by Isuzu Philippines Corporation and Isuzu Malaysia for those attending the Isuzu D-Max Dura Mission in Kota Kinabalu in November 2009. It was a very busy month and although I never got to prepare well the way I did when we climbed Mt. Pulag and Mt. Apo, I took the challenge along with seven other members of the delegation.

Isuzu Philippines president Keiji Takeda said they chose Kota Kinabalu to give us a broader peek into Isuzu’s achievements in this part of the world. He said, “The clamor for the D-Max has expanded in Malaysia when it was introduced here in 2005. Last year, the D-Max sales in Malaysia jumped by a whopping 67 percent. Being accepted as a real business tool, the D-Max has gained an unbeaten reputation here.”

Meantime, Isuzu Malaysia president Takashi Hata noted that IPC could not have chosen a better destination. ”Sabah is Isuzu Malaysia’s biggest market. The hilly terrain and rugged countryside make vehicles like our D-Max ideal for tackling the tough road conditions.”

On our second day, four D-Max 4×4 units lined up at the hotel driveway  for us to test drive. Our first destination was the Mari-Mari Village, an authentic tribal community. The next two hours became an immersion of sorts into the Malaysian culture, food, and way of life. Of course, with a wacky group such as the motoring journalists, we had a lot of laughter in between.

After lunch,  the D-Max I shared with Dino Directo of Manila Standard Today and my son Ronald, and the rest of the group drove for about an hour to KK’s main river for the white water rafting adventure.

After more than hour, the water adventurers hit dry land and we prepared for a real 4×4 drive to the Mt. Kinabalu Hertige Park where our hotel is located.

The D-Max’s shift-on-the fly 4×4 mode came handy as we tackled moderate to serious off-road driving conditions. A simple push to a button made shifting to 4×4 high or low very easy. Even at 4×2 mode, the D-Max survived some relatively hard maneuvers but when darkness enveloped the mountain roads, we maintained it at 4×4 high to make sure we had better traction on loose sand and gravel.

The only time we shifted to 4×4 low was when we passed a long muddy, 40-degree incline road that led to a sharp curve when we were about half an hour away from our hotel. It was like off-roading in Tanay, Rizal in the old days.

At 9 a.m. on our third day, all eight climbers assembled at the hotel lobby for the transport stage to the Timpohon Gate, the starting point for the climb at more than 3,000 feet.

Among those who saw us off were Mr. Takeda, IPC EVP Yuki Kato, SVP Art Balmadrid, public relations manager Timmy de Leon, PR supervisor Ronald Baladad and sales executive Rico Macalintal and colleagues Dino Directo and Anjo Perez of Manila Bulletin.

With a backpack of about seven kilos, the first two kilometers of the climb was tolerable but on the next two kilometers, the bag became heavier and my legs started to wobble. My rest stops became longer hoping I could harness some energy with three-minute cat naps.

Climbing Mt. Kinabalu is a major tourism activity in Sabah, The climb is divided into two  parts. The first one is  from Timpohon Gate at Kinabalu Park HQ to Laban Rata and the second one from Laban Rata to the summit.

On our 4-km rest stop and after about six hours of climbing, I gave my backpack to our porter and settled for my small backpack enough to carry my water canister, videocam and digicam. It was cold what with intermittent rains coming our way but I continued perspiring under my jacket.

At 2,515 meters or about  8,000 feet, the fourth shelter offers vistas of wild flowers and orchid ferns. The largest moss in the world, Dawsonia  grows up to a meter  high in this area. There are supposed to be a number of  animals to be spotted here but I only saw squirrels as the other animals are either nocturnal or shy away from visitors.

Despite a lighter load, I still had a tough time taking the last two kilometers up to Laban Rata where our hotel in the mountain stands. The trail is harder than Mt. Apo (which I climbed almost four years ago) but much safer because of the well-laid out steps and directional signs to the summit. Mt. Apo has almost none of these and much more slippery.

On the 5-km mark, at Pondok Layang Layang the intimidating rocky wall of  Mt. Kinabalu showed itself. By this time, we were already above the clouds and the air felt thinner.

A small  hut serving as a temporary shelter stands on an open exposed ridge. The vegetation changes dramatically, where the trail crosses the orange-cinnamon soil.

The forest becomes progressively shorter and much more open.

I finally made it to Laban Rata at 11,000 ft. (1,000 ft higher than Mt. Apo). I was so exhausted and hungry, I went straight to the restaurant after depositing my bags in the hotel-dorm.

The hotel was comfortable and cozy and had limited hot shower and heater in the room but the air felt thin I did not get a good sleep. Joseph felt the same way when we saw each other at 1 a.m. of our fourth and last day. This was the time all climbers  suited up for the  2:30 a.m. summit hike.

Joseph and I decided to stay and sent our six climbers off together with about a hundred foreign climbers. I worried I might injure myself if I pushed for the summit which was 3,000 ft more and had sharper incline.

Reaching 11,000 ft itself was no mean feat, I consoled myself. At this elevation, the clouds were several hundred feet below us and the view was already spectacular.

But at around 8 a.m., I decided to hike further up to get a better view of the peak and to welcome our hikers back and interview them on my video cam too. It was a tremendous view from another 300 feet up.

Finally the summiteers arrived one by one – Hermes Canon of Isuzu, Ayvi Nicholas of Philippine Star, Ronald Rey de los Reyes, Charles Buban of Philippine Daily Inquirer, Enrico Subido of Gadgets and Larajill Santos of Isuzu. They said they were happy to survive the very cold temperature, possibly 5 degrees, the wet surface and ropes, the slippery conditions and climbing in the dark. The  view at Low’s Peak was spectacular and they were so thankful that they saw one of Nature’s most beautiful creations.

Breakfast and a two-hour rest followed and then we all headed for the descent, another six kilometers of hiking. Having rested a bit, I was the first to reach the starting gate at Timpohon.

The day before, I spent eight hours climbing while the others averaged six to seven hours. On the way back, I made it in less than 3.5 hours. Going down was not really that easy but we tried to make it as fast as we could because we had a 7 p.m. flight to catch.

After a late lunch, we shuttled to our meeting place at a seafood restaurant more than two hours away but we only had a few minutes to arrange our baggage and we hurried to the airport just in time for our flight back to Manila.

Whew! The Kota Kinabalu challenge is something we will remember for a long, long time.

A winding stone staircase at the back of the Sanssoucci Castle.

It was already the end of May, but the weather in Berlin was still cold as we were standing at the platform of the Friedrichstrasse train station, waiting for our train to Potsdam. My husband Alex and I were staying in one of the still-being finished hostels (The Bax Pax) in Berlin in the Mitte area, along Ziegelstrasse, a stone’s throw from the big rail station along Friedrich St.

The area of our hostel was in the throes of building upheaval — across our room was a four story-building that was just finished, with floor-to-ceiling glass walls to fully utiliize natural lighting, and where, for the next five days we witnessed a transformation: first the carpets were laid out, then furniture was moved in; slowly, books, lamps, a stereo system, tables, swivel chairs, and finally a bed, were carefully arranged in the different parts of the third floor unit. It was like watching a silent movie, with the workers busy doing a different task each day, and the spacious box-like rooms were transformed slowly before our very eyes.

One day, light blue curtains were hoisted up, and the place became a private place especially at night, where lights could be seen at the edges of the window covers. With our own third-story room (we were given a big family room, good for a couple with three children) having the same floor-to-ceiling glass walls, I’m sure we also presented a full view of ourselves to the neighbors, until we drew our own cheery red curtains at night.

All over the Bax Pax hotel finishing touches were still being done, and we could smell the freshly-poured concrete, and even met some of the workers in stained overalls, with their paint cans and brushes, and the smell of turpentine along the corridors. It was a fresh smell of renewal, so distinct around the area around where we stayed, as we contemplated the huge, heavy and severe buildings just around the corner, brown-orange and still, their small windows probably the only source of sunlight in airless rooms, an acute reminder that we were living in what used to be East Berlin before the country’s reunification in Nov. 7, 1989.

We planned to visit a popular local destination that day, the park and Schloβ (castle) Sanssouci, about half an hour away by train from Berlin. “Sans soucci” literally meant “without worry” or “carefree” in French. It was built by the German king, Friedrich II (also known as Friedrich the Great), who was obviously a Francophile.

As if to highlight the vagaries of the weather (and how puny we all humans were) we reached Potsdam as the skies broke into a steady downpour. As we stepped out of the warm rail station we were greeted by blasts of icy wind and heavy rain. Our lightweight umbrellas were not too helpful as we hopelessly looked around us, most of the alighting passengers already rushing out into the rain, with their thick rainwear and umbrellas.

We looked around for some signs to the palace grounds and found none. Because of the thick rain it was also impossible to orient ourselves to the new place. Feeling cheerful and confident however, we briskly strode out of the rail station and followed what looked to be the main road, and started walking.

The rain became stronger, and horizontal, and I felt the moisture seep through four layers of an outer jacket, a knitted sweater, a long-sleeved shirt, and a thermal wear. The scarf and the golf hat I wore helped to keep me warm, but I had to walk faster to avoid shivering.

After trotting purposefully for almost 30 minutes we reached a small awning of an open garage and car repair shop that looked dry and we instinctively stopped for cover. The rain didn’t seem to have let up, and we were getting soaked. Each time the wind blew I could almost feel that Alex and I shivered at the same time.

We exchanged looks, asking the same question in our minds: do we continue (how? where to?), or simply go back to the train station (to ask for direction? go back to Berlin? Not a good option, the last one!)

As we were contemplating our predicament, like a dues ex machina in our Greek texts, a middle-aged man suddenly appeared from the inside of the garage, smiling.

Alex and I promptly chorused, “Guten morgen!” and smiled back.

He had an open face, a kindly smile, and we liked him immediately. Sad to say that quick phrase was the one of the only handful working knowledge we had of Deutsch, as we could only stammer out, “Schloβ Sanssoucci?”

He immediately got the idea and pointed out the other direction from where we were, and then pointed out our damp clothing. He then asked us, using the universal language of signing, to come, join him into his car, parked just outside the garage.

With the smallest of hesitations I got into the back seat of his light blue hatchback while Alex joined him in front. We expected him to simply deposit us in front of the main road, or even the train station, but we were so surprised that he drove us across the big expanse of the city, constantly saying (probably to reassure us) “Sanssoucci! Sanssoucci!”

We winded our way through the main streets and smart shops, some schools, and even the local church. Still we went on, and after about 20 minutes he stopped in front of a gated park, and said something in German, pointing to the gates.
“Sanssoucci?” we asked. “Ja! ja!” he laughed.

We could hardly contain our gratitude for such kindness, and this from a stranger in a foreign land. But because we could not even ask for his name and address (we didn’t bring our German phrase book that day, nor our trusty but thick and heavy Let’s Go guide book where a three-paged ‘Useful German Phrasebook’ was), we could only say, over and over, shaking his hand, “Danke schön!” And he kept answering, “Bitte! Bitte!,” waving us off with a wide, wide smile, and simply drove off.

A month later I was able to get the e-mail address of the Tourism Board of Potsdam and sent them a note, together with the photo of our journey’s angel, thanking him again, for this grace from a stranger. To this day, that kindness evokes a bittersweet gratitude in us, and has become a highlight when we think about our German travels.

Sanssoucci Gardens was a huge 600-acre park, half of which was in Baroque style — gardens with straight paths intersecting at centers with fountains and topiaries, statues of naked, frolicking nymphs; and half in English-style landscaping which was rambling and rolling grassy terrain. As if on cue, the rain suddenly stopped as we stepped into the entrance, and the sun even peeped out for a few minutes. We could only shake our heads in bewilderment, and laughed at nature’s whims.

We didn’t want any formal directions on how to walk about the park, so we simply followed our noses, and walked right in. A few locals were walking their pet dogs of all sizes — and as we went deeper into the woods following trails, the grass remained as manicured as any well-cared for estate.

Because of the rain the smell of damp earth was so fresh and pervasive I couldn’t help but take deep lungfuls of it, and apparently the forest denizens were enjoying the weather too, as squirrels scampered about, and melodious birdcalls were heard all over, as we paused to look at the large red, violet and orange blooms that studded the meticulously-tended garden.

We got into the straight paths by chance, and true enough, they ended in round areas where there were stone benches for tired feet, and about 500 meters away were another round area with the same stone benches but entirely differently-designed topiary or classical statue melding very well with the surrounding plants and trees. Definitely it reminded us of the Versailles gardens, until we reached the castle itself, which reiterated that impression.

It sat on top of the hill, and even from afar it looked very ornate, indeed. An architect friend would probably describe it as in rococo style, with its carvings and lampposts with curlicues, its wide winding outdoor stairs leading to the main door.

That day, though, the castle was closed, and we simply contented ourselves with looking through the glass doors, and saw that inside was a repeat of the very ornate and baroque style, with gold trims on the cornices.

Rambling further in the park we discovered the beautiful Chinesisches Teehaus (a small building with a porcelain exhibit inside) with its oriental motif, the most prominent of which was the rooftop Buddha holding a parasol. The pillars surrounding the house had delicate, gold-plated figurines, depicting characters from Victorian periods.

At this point we were surprised to learn that it was past 1 p.m., no wonder we were looking for food.

Managing to return to the entrance of the park we slowly walked through a well-paved path and espied a signage with a red dragon in one corner of the street, which said, “Dragon Restaurant.” Without hesitation we entered the place (feeling like homing pigeons) and found ourselves face to face with a smiling Asian young man who showed us to our seats.

Because of the late hour, we had the whole place to ourselves. Lacquered and intricately-carved wooden panels served as dividing walls between the banquettes, while soft Chinese instrumental music played in the background; and as we looked through the proffered menu we realized that it was a Vietnamese restaurant.

Outside, the sun shone brightly, as if telling us, all is well indeed, in the world.

Tired and feet-weary we trudged back to Bax Pax passing by our favorite Doner Kebab place just off our hostel. Because of the influence of a large Turkish immigrant population in Germany, the Doner Kebab (shawarma) has become one of the “national food” in the country.

We got two to take back to Bax Pax in case we decided to call it an early night. True enough, it was.

POINSETTIAS at Bokod.

My original plan for the five-day vacation after Christmas was to take things slow, and just spend days lazing around in Banaue and Sagada. In fact, I already packed my hammock and brought several books, and was already looking forward to doing nothing but just reading under the cool shade of the pine trees in Sagada.

However, when I arrived at the assembly point in Alabang, I knew my plan would change. It was only my friend Caloy and his wife Nancy who showed up. The rest of the people whom I invited somehow could not make it.

There is one big advantage of travelling either solo or a small group of two or three: it is very easy to change itinerary. Caloy is one of my most adventurous friends, so it is very easy talking him into changing the original plan. Over breakfast we discussed that our new itinerary must be flexible, and would allow us to visit destinations in the Cordilleras outside the usual tourist paths.

DAY 1: Manila – Baguio – Ambuklao – Bokod – Kabayan

As soon as we fixed the new plan, we left Alabang at 4:30 a.m. and drove my 4×4 D-Max to Baguio. Traffic was very light and by 10 a.m. we were already in Baguio for our last fuel refill before we head to the mountains.

Our first stop after we left Baguio is Ambuklao Dam. Located 35 kilometers from Baguio, this dam was completed in 1956. Considered at the time as the highest and biggest dam in the Far East, it provided 75-MW of hydro-electric power to the region. However, in 1999 due to damages caused by earthquake, Ambuklao Hydro-Electric Plant was shut down.

Nowadays, Ambuklao Dam serves only as a catch basin for upper Agno River. During the recent typhoon Pepeng, waters that flooded Pangasinan came from Ambuklao, passed thru Binga Dam, and then finally, San Roque Dam.

Ambuklao’s fate, however, may soon change. It is now being rehabilitated by a private company so that it’s worn out turbines will soon be upgraded to again produce better and higher hydro-electric power capacity. There is also a newly constructed detour road that now avoids passage thru the aging dam. And, the newly opened well-paved Aritao-Ambulao road makes the access from Baguio to Cagayan Valley easier.

From Ambuklao, we drove 10 kilometers to take a quick lunch at Jang-Jang Eatery in Bokod. For many climbers of Mt. Pulag, this quaint eatery is the final stop where one can get a full meal before ascending to Luzon’s highest peak. I saw several young climbers with their designer backpacks and expensive gadgets milling around Jang-Jang. It made me smile as I remembered my first climb to Mt. Pulag decades ago when I had to make do with climbing outfits and gears bought from second-hand stores.

At the 50 km. junction, we took the road on the left bound for Kabayan. After more than two hours drive along dusty road, we finally reached Kabayan proper. Lodging in Kabayan is available only at Coop Lodge (P200 per person).

Nestled in a bowl-like valley surrounded by mountains, Kabayan is an interesting alternative to Sagada. It is a nice place to relax, hike, explore its many burial caves, drink its famous Arabica coffee (P5 per cup at Manang Catherine’s cafeteria at public market) and see its famous mummies.

Between 500 to 1,000 years before, the Ibalois of Kabayan practiced mummification. According to history, the process of mummification starts immediately after the deceased breathes his last. The deceased is immediately undressed, tied securely on a high chair, his mouth opened, and a solution of salt and water poured through the mouth.

A low fire is then lit under the chair to help in the process of drying. Tobacco is also blown through the mouth to help preserve internal tissues and to drive out worms.

Although there are several sites around Kabayan where mummies can be found, only two known sites are accessible: the six-hour trek Timbac Caves or the short-distance Kabayan Museum.

We opted to visit the latter. Another interesting site to visit in Kabayan is the easily-accessible Opdas Mass Burial Cave where skulls and skeletons of hundreds of deceased Ibalois can be found.

DAY 2: Kabayan – Bugias – Tinoc – Kiangan – Banaue

Our original plan for Day 2 was to visit two of the five mountain lakes of Mt. Pulag: Tabeyo and Bulalakaw. Unfortunately, we cannot contact our guide (no signal), and visiting the lakes would require us to make a long detour, that we finally decided to postpone the visit the lakes to some future adventures.

The 21-kilometer road from Kabayan to Buguias is also mostly unpaved. Three kilometers after Buguias poblacion, the road forks: straight to Abatan junction (12KM) in Halsema Highway and the dirt uphill road to Tinoc.

The road between Buguias (Benguet province) and Tinoc (Ifugao province) passes through Mt. Tabayac with its magnificent view of pine forests and vast vegetable terraces.

We made a brief stop in the barangay of Katlubong in Buguias to marvel at an endless field planted with all types of upland vegetables. We met Elion Madino, a vegetable grower, as he proudly showed us his fresh harvest of cabbage and pechay. According to him, the farmers at Buguias take all their produce to Baguio via the long mostly unpaved road to Abatan (three hours), before finally reaching Bagsakan Center (another three hours). I checked the trucks they are used to transport vegetables: they are all second-hand 4×4 Isuzu trucks.

From the last barangay of Katlubong, the road makes a steep climb to the provincial boundary of Ifugao. Big rocks and deep mud lined the almost hidden road, and only 4×4 vehicles with high clearance can navigate the 24-kilometer stretch to Tinoc.

As we reached the mossy forest at an elevation of almost 2,300 meters, we stopped our vehicle to take a closer look at wild flowers and dwarfed plants, covered with green and brown moss, framed by the bluest sky and cooled by thin but unpolluted air.

From the highest point, the road makes a long and winding descent to Tinoc. We arrived at the poblacion at already half past one, and when we ask around where we can find a place to eat, we were directed to an eatery at the corner of the ‘oval’. When we arrived at the eatery, we were told that they are serving the town’s specialty: dog-meat. We settled for a can of sardines and cup noodles.

The road from Tinoc to Kiangan was only formally-opened this year. Once fully-completed, this road makes an interesting alternative to Halsema Highway. The road is very narrow, and even during dry season, is mostly muddy. It took us more than three hours to navigate its 40-kilometer stretch.

We arrived in Kiangan already past 5 p.m. The roads in Kiangan are lined with bettle-nut trees instead of pines. We also had a glimpse of its famous Julungan and Nagacadan terraces, both of which are World Heritage site listed. It was already dark when we made a brief stop at its pyramid-shaped War Memorial Site.

Kiangan is Ifugao’s oldest town and former capital. Around its poblacion are well-preserved American-era mission houses. Kiangan is also an alternative base to explore Ifugao province. Kiangan is better known as the place where General Yamashita and his staff surrendered to the U.S. Army. There are still many hunters combing Kiangan looking for Yamashita treasures.

Nine kilometers from Kiangan, the road connects to the highway leading to Banaue (another 30 kilometers). We arrived in Banaue almost 7 p.m., and we immediately asked our friend, Leo Bustamante, owner of Las Vegas cafe to prepare a special dinner for us. When dinner arrived, we immediately consumed the hot vegetable-noodle soup, fried bangus and red rice which Leo prepared.

We stayed the night al Leo’s Las Vegas Lodge. Although the place is located one kilometer from the center, it has a good parking, hot water and charges only P200 per person.

DAY 3: Banaue – Bontoc – Mainit – Sagada

After two days on bumpy roads, we decided to take it easy on the third day. The 48-kilometer drive from Banaue to Bontoc was a breeze as we navigated through almost well-paved roads. We made brief stops to view the barangay of Bay-yo, with its high fortress-like terraces, and the village of Talubin, with its interesting rows of galvanized roofs.

Bontoc is the capital of Mountain Province, and the Cordillera’s biggest town. Nestled at a valley of 800 meters, it is the region’s oldest trading center. Bontoc is also an ideal base for expeditions to Mountain Province, Ifugao and Kalinga, with its network of public transportation, inexpensive lodging and food, and very knowledgeable guides.

An interesting outing from Bontoc is the village of Mainit. From the Provincial Capitol Building, the road on the left climbs to Mainit. 15 kilometers from Bontoc and at an elevation of over 1,200 meters, Mainit has some scalding hot springs. Rows of wood and galvanized houses and small pools lined the smoking hot creeks. The local government has now built a lodging house near the village entrance so that tourists can now stay overnight in the villagers. At night-time, villagers and guests gather around the public pools to enjoy the hot spring waters while sharing a bottle of tapuy (rice-wine).

From Bontoc, it is an easy one-hour uphill drive to Sagada. We checked in at St. Joseph’s Guesthouse. St. Joseph’s still maintains the old dormitory room which they rent out for P500 (good for two).
As soon as settled in Sagada, I jumped into my usual Sagada routines: walk around town, buy native oranges, eat pasta with tuna sauce at Shamrock, enjoy coffee and lemon pie, and have a relaxing massage. By 8 p.m., I was asleep.

DAY 4: Sagada – Sabangan – Bauko – Tadian – Cervantes – Bessang Pass – Suyo – Tagudin – Bantay – San Vicente – Vigan.

Day 4 is a long drive as we retraced the old Spanish trail that linked the Cordillera with the coastal town of Ilocos. Before the Americans built the Kennon Road in Baguio, trade between the mountain people and the lowlanders already flourished. Among the most important trading centers during the Spanish time is Cervantes, which can be accessed thru Tirad Pass from Candon.

The province of Mountain Province originally came from the old sub-provinces of Lepanto-Amburayan. This old Cordillera sub-province originally included Tagudin, Suyo and Cervantes. The river between the last town of La Union (Supiden) and the first town of Ilocos Sur (Tagudin) is called Amburayan.

From Sagada, there are two ways to reach Cervantes: the unpaved road via Besao and the better-maintained road via Sabangan. Both roads meet in Tadian, where a 17-kilometer stretch of mostly-unpaved road leads to Cervantes.

We left Sagada at 8 p.m. and by 9 p.m. we were already at Sabangan junction, where the road on the left leads to Bauko, then Tadian. The first few kilometres of the 12-kilometer stretch is well-maintained, until we reached a “Road Close” sign where we were rerouted to a dusty road up the mountain. At the end of the detour, the road leads to a junction: turning left returns to Halsema, turning right leads to Tadian.

The 10-kilometer road between Bauko and Tadian is well-paved. Tadian has a beautiful town hall and a sprawling campus. I also saw an old boungavilla tree right in the middle of the road blooming with red flowers.

From Tadian, the 17-kilometer dirt road descends to Abra River before finally reaching Cervantes. The bridge which used to connect the Cordillera with Ilocos Region still remained unrepaired. All vehicles crossing to Cervantes and vice-versa now have to go down to the river and wade through knee-deep water.

After travelling for three hours, we finally reached Cervantes. The town has a very interesting location: a valley at 600 meters nestled between the green Cordillera mountains and the brown Ilocos mountains, with fertile rice lands in the middle irrigated by the upper Abra River. Cervantes is known as a source of the red mountain rice and the black malagkit rice.

Cervantes was formerly a small Igorot village known as Mantamang. It became part of the sub-province of Lepanto-Amburayan in 1879, and by 1899, when the Americans captured Cervantes after the fall of Tirad Pass, it became the capital of the military province. During the American occupation, Cervantes became an important base for expeditions to the Cordillera. Even today, a dozen American mission houses still stand around Cervantes.

From Cervantes, two important mountain passes cut through the Ilocos mountain rage: Bessang Pass which leads to Tagudin and Tirad Pass which leads to Candon. Both have historical significance: Bessang was the site of the bloody battle between the Japanese and the joint American-Filipino forces, and Tirad between American and Filipino forces.

The road to Suyo from Cervantes snakes through Besang Pass. This empty well-paved road which reaches an elevation of 1,600 meters has a roadside landmark at its highest point commemorating the Battle of Bessang Pass. The same landmark is also the jump-off point for exploring a mountain peak called Nose Bridge where a 55-meter Japanese dug-out called Yamashita Cave can be found.

The 64-kilometer Cervantes-Tagudin road takes less than two hours to drive before it joins the main highway to Vigan. Compared with Candon which was an old Igorot trading center, Tagudin was established as a mission base among Igorots occupying the Amburayan River. Nowadays, with a sparkling newly-constructed bridge crossing Amburayan, Tagudin is poised to regain its reputation as the gateway to both Ilocos Sur and the Cordillera.

From Tagudin, the most important trading center during the Spanish time of the North, Vigan, is only 85 kilometers away.

Located at the mouth of the Abra River, Isla de Bigan was an important trading post of the famous Silk Route connecting the Philippines with the rest of Asia, Arabia, America and Europe. Seafaring merchants bartered gold, beeswax and other mountain products from the Cordillera with exotic goods coming from the rest of the world. It is through these merchants, mostly Chinese, that the world discovered the golds of Lepanto –Amburayan.

Vigan was a very important trading post between the merchants and the natives that the Spanish government felt it should be well protected. The Spaniards built baluertes or watchtowers at the mouth of Abra River: Bantay in the north, and Santa (previously Sta. Catalina de Baba) in the south. Bantay (Ilocano word for “Guardian”) bell tower sit atop Calvary Hills served as a lookout for approaching enemies and pirates. When we climbed the belfry during our visit, the guide explained that each bell was rung depending the type of boats the watchmen see approaching from South China Sea.

Before entering Vigan, we made a brief detour to the adjacent town of San Vicente to check its distinct twin-towered Baroque church and the impressive, but now abandoned, Asilo de San Vicente. The Church of San Vicente de Ferrer is now sporting a brand-new coat of paint, but the Asilo, which was once used as governor’s vacation home, is now in a sorry state with its once ornate windows falling off and its once beautiful garden is now a grazing ground for cows.

It was already dark when we finally entered the city of Vigan. My D-Max is now covered with mud and dirt after a four-day expedition around Cordillera. As we traversed the elegant streets of Vigan, we can’t help but get disapproving stares from locals and tourists. This must be the same reaction when the mountain people of the Cordillera roamed around the mestizo district in the past.

We finally checked in Vigan. We had a quick dinner of empanada and okoy. The whole Crisologo Street was filled with tourists mostly from Manila. I was planning to do some night photography but there were so many people around that it was very difficult setting-up low-light photography with a tripod. By nine o’ clock, I was asleep.

DAY 5: Vigan – Manila

I woke up early to take some photographs of Crisologo Street and Plaza Burgos. As I was going out of the hotel lobby, I realized that my Cordillera adventure was not over yet: the hotel where I spent the night is called Cordillera Inn. Perhaps, the owner of the hotel was aware of the historical significance of the Cordillera in the development of northern Luzon that he named the hotel Cordillera Inn.

When I arrived home nine hours after we left Vigan, I felt happy of the wealth of information I learned criss-crossing the Cordillera. I now have deeper appreciation of the peoples of the mountain, of the many struggles and difficulties they went through to survive and to preserve their culture. The people I met and the places I visited and the new trails I discovered made this expedition to the Cordillera even more endearing. I was glad that we took roads less travelled in Cordillera.

Rizal Park, also known as Luneta (Photo by KJ ROSALES)

A stroll along Rizal Park in Manila, can also be described as a walk for patriotism – not only because of its historical significance, but because the place has the power to stir a sense of national pride.

This was the experience I encountered when Cruising visited the National Park to once more discover its well-known charm.

Better remembered as a family park, Rizal Park, more popularly known as Luneta, is often in one’s childhood memories. Most Filipinos, especially those in Luzon, have visited the place at least once – mostly to enjoy the fresh breeze of Manila Bay that gently wafts through the park’s abundant trees and garden plants. Picnic is popular around the area, with wide open spaces where visitors can simply spread a blanket and enjoy time with the family.

There are many places to rest: The quaint Japanese Garden with its serene pond; the Chinese Garden with the statue of Confuscius commemorating the friendship between the Philippines and China; the Orchidarium and butterfly sanctuary for the plant lovers; and the Bulwagan ng Sining (Artist’s Haven) for those who enjoy installation art pieces. Some of the areas such as the Japanese and Chinese gardens require a minimum entrance fee (P5). Rizal Park is under the management of the National Parks Development Committee.

But a more significant way to enjoy Rizal Park is to discover its historical significance. The 22-hectare area is colored with important pieces of history which helped shape the Philippines. Luneta was coined from the Spanish word lunette or moon, which describes the park area’s peculiar shape. The property was used during the Spanish times as buffer for invading forces trying to get in the walled city of Intramuros. The paved area made it easier to see ships and groups coming in from the Manila Bay.

Begin the walk from the side of Taft Avenue, and make your way through Roxas Boulevard, in front of the Quirino Grandstand. A diorama of the Philippine archipelago can be seen upon entering the park, a feature which lights-up at night.
Rising in the middle of the area near Taft Avenue is a large statue of Lapu-lapu – known as the first defender of the country. The area is sometimes used to stage national celebrations.

Cross Maria Orosa St. to get to the next area of Rizal Park, which offers a better option for visits. A shallow lagoon which used to showcase dazzling light show in the evening now serves as a gallery for several granite busts of various Filipino patriots. Surrounding the lagoon are the faces of Rajah Sulaiman, Hermano Pule, Juan Sumuroy, Graciano Lopez Jaena, and others.

On the right side of the lagoon is the Japanese Garden where one can find the marker for the Trese Martires or 13 Martyrs. The site honors the execution area of 13 Filipinos who died in the hands of Spanish soldiers while trying to penetrate nearby Intramuros.

Up ahead are large sculptures depicting the plight of Filipinos during the Spanish times, such as the large figure of a mother cradling her suffering children. The sculpture is titled ‘El Madre Filipinas’ (Inang Bayan). Another sculpture showcases yet another stirring image of suffering Filipinos. It is dubbed ‘Punla ng Kalayaan’ (Seeds of freedom). One can’t help but imagine the hardship our ancestors might have suffered on their fight for independence.

Just across the sculptures is another significant marker – the site where the three martyr priests, GOMBURZA, were hanged. Beside is the area which gave Luneta (known during the Spanish times as Bagumbayan) its historical significance: The location of Rizal’s execution. It was here where even in his last moments, Rizal showed his love for the country, by willing the last of his strength to face the sun, refusing to fall face-down, after he was shot. A smaller park beside the execution site is a mural of Rizal’s life, with diorama sculptures of the National Hero’s last walk before he was killed.

The highlight of one’s visit is of course, the monument of Jose Rizal, where his remains lie – a structure erected by a group led by his brother, Paciano, along with other Filipino patriots. The country’s love for the famous martyr is apparent in the care shown for the area. Here, unlike other parts of Luneta, the grass are kept green all throughout the year. The flowering shrubs are in full bloom, and young soldiers continue to guard the last resting place of Rizal. A special wall etched with Rizal’s famous “Last Farewell” stands.

The monument site is a special place. It witnessed various important events – the declaration of independence from American rule, peaceful demonstrations against the Marcos administration, and recently, the country’s farewell bid of another beloved icon, the late President Aquino. A large flag in front further marked the importance of Rizal Park, it is also labeled Kilometer 0 – the point of beginning of all roads in the country.

One can’t help but wax nostalgic with all things the Rizal Park represents. For many, it is a place of childhood memories. But most importantly, it is a place for hope that the country it represents, will once more bask in the old glory the heroes in the park so valiantly fought for.

The official marker of the Quezon City Circle

The 26-hectare Quezon Memorial Circle is a natural landmark that locates six main roads of Quezon City –  Quezon, East, Katipunan, Commonwealth, Visayas, and North Avenues – that start from its perimenter.  The three-pylon monument which stands 66 meters, is the official marker of the Circle; it is the monument for Manuel L. Quezon, the first President of the Commonweatlh, and father of Quezon City.

The best view of the Quezon Memorial monument is coming from Quezon Avenue.  Unobstructed, it stands as a natural landmark to remind travelers where they are in their trip.  To those doing business in the the Quezon  City Hall, the monument announces that they are almost there.  Those who live in the north find comfort in the thought that they are almost home.

To the people who live in Quezon City , the Quezon Memorial Circle is an emotional landmark – it stands to measure time. The times one faithfully jogged or walked, to lose weight. The weekend a child learned to balance on a bike. The Sunday a son went off with a group of bikers – or runners – to join a race. The days of class field trips when you had to climb a wall, run a distance, and learn about herbs – and now, you are walking with your children. The hot afternoon when first love – or an old love – said hello – or goodbye.

The Quezon Memorial Circle has grown old with the city.  Thirty years ago when my family relocated to Quezon City, that park was where we spent unexpected free time.  It was always a pleasure to walk, bike, picnic in the Circle.The trees were generous with shade, the grass was always lush, and wide space made one feel truly Outdoors.

Today, the trees have become mini-forests, spreading wider shade. The grass seems lush but with the number of people there on a recent Sunday, one forgets to see the green.  And although the park remains to be 26 hectares, the space does not bring the ambience of the Great Outdoors.  The success of the Quezon Memorial Park has attracted so many people to enjoy this place, drawing commercial activities offered by restaurants, food stalls and souvenir shops.  On top of that are the charming sights of small vendors –dirty ice cream carts, fruit stands, cotton candy makers are still there, or how can the air of a carefree Sunday truly be there without them?

It was the Sunday after New Year’s Day when we visited, so we still caught the carnival.  The holidays was still in the air with the tivoli lights defining the ride attractions.  I remember that on New Year’s Day, the crowd at the carnival spilled out to fill up every space of picnic ground in the Park, prompting the police to assign an unprecedented number of uniformed officers to patrol the area.

There is no time to get lonely at the Circle.  You can walk around alone, but you’ll step into the lives of people trying out a skill.  Prepare to be entertained by the sight of people oblivious to passers-by like yourself. They are in the process of mastering a stunt (juggling bottles); a dance (moving to the rhythm of “Nobody but you”); a sports skill (daring biking jumps); a vending talent (peeling a coconut with a knife in seconds); a song; a speech; or just the sight of a graceful runner passing by.  If you go in the morning, you’ll have a panorama of bodies some graceful in aerobics, others struggling to keep up with the pace.  And if you catch the ballroom dancing sessions (which a poster announced), you’ll likely be enticed to join!

Credit for the rehabilitation of the Circle is given to former QC Vice-Mayor Charito Planas, who heads the Quezon City Parks Development Foundation.

A part of the 35-km bike trail at the La Mesa Dam Nature Park. (Photo by ANJO PEREZ)

A 10-km stretch of bike trail known as Loop No. 4, whetting the appetite for uphill and downhill adrenalin rush, or enduring a 700-meter uphill climb with a 20-degree inclination in the killer Loop No. 12?  It’s not a choice, it’s part of the easy and difficult trails in the 35-km bike trail at the La Mesa Dam Nature Park.  But if one’s stamina fails for any reason – lack of skill, sleep or guts – there’s always a way out that leads to the main road and back to the reception area.

Bikers are starting to discover this bike trail’s endless challenges for the beginners to experts, enticing most of them to come back for more, said Glenn Paul C. Flores, Bantay Kalikasan-Save La Mesa Dam senior forester.

Loose dirt road, rocks and pebbles, protruding roots of trees and even narrow planks test the rider’s reflexes during the entire ride. Categorized in 12 loops within the 35-kilometer trail, the 41-year-old forester guarantees scenic spots where cyclists can rest and enjoy brief photography.

A native of Baguio, Flores assured that all their “trail masters (guides)” are aptly trained on first aid and certified by the Philippine National Red Cross.

Equipped with radios and cellular phones, Flores assured of quick emergency response anytime.

After a day in the bike trails, here’s my advice to those who will find their way there next weekend: Grip tightly to the handle bars as the dirt roads are tricky. Don’t let the dirt stretches overwhelm you as they are deceiving and oftentimes, dangerous. Be cautious on downhill manuevers as there might be a big jump waiting below just before a tight bend.

For experienced and expert riders, prepare for the killer Loop No. 12 that involves a punishing 700 meters of uphill with a  20-degree inclination. Master your gear-changing skills and pedal hard to endure the climb.

The reward… a scenic view of the entire Ortigas Center from the viewing deck of Tower 1 right at the apex.  Minus the morning smog, riders can also view the beauty of Mt. Arayat in Pampanga and Mt. Samat in Bataan.  For those with 20-20 vision, the historic Dambana ng Kagitingan in Mt. Samat can also be seen.  Most of the time, the Port Area in Manila also shows up in Tower 1.

Another rare feat in La Mesa Dam’s bike trail is the river crossings. But if you don’t want to wet your feet and expensive biking shoes, then take the adjacent makeshift bridge.

Setting an authentic bike-friendly atmosphere, every Loop resting stations are equipped with wooden benches and bike stands to make riders feel at home while talking about the trail experience.  Littering of trash is strictly prohibited.

“We ban people from entering the premises if we catch them littering,” Flores warned.

There are also safety rules that are strictly implemented by trail masters, among them are the “no helmet, no ride” policy, bikes should be road worthy and no cutting of trees and no fishing.

Trail fee is set for P200 for every rider in a group with a minimum of five. For those who want to go solo with less five riders, P1,000 is for each rider. The fee goes with a trail master.

Exorbitant? Maybe. But remember the “magic” this organization has done to the La Mesa Dam Watershed. If not for them, that huge parcel of land may have just remained as a big squatter area, denuded of forest and worse, no water to hold for Metro Manila residents.

Some four decades ago, La Mesa Dam was always considered a picnic ground for families who only had a day for a get together. During those days, there were thick forests, fauna and flora, and clean lake area that welcomed Metro Manila visitors.

The 2,700-hectare La Mesa Dam Watershed, 700 hectares of which is the reservoir and 2,000 hectares forested area, is owned by the Manila Waterworks and Sewerage System (MWSS).

Before the February 1986 EDSA People Power Revolution, the La Mesa Dam Watershed – a primary source of drinking water for more than 12 million Metro Manila residents – deteriorated to become an abandoned government entity.  However, the fast deterioration of the facility caught the attention of concerned environmentalists who cited the negative effects of La Mesa Dam’s denudation to Metro Manila’s dwindling water supply and worsening air pollution.

In 1999, “Bantay Kalikasan (Nature Watch)” of ABS CBN established a partnership with MWSS to undertake the Save La Mesa Dam Watershed project with the objective of rehabilitating, reforest, preserve and protect the area.

More than a decade after the project was launched, Metro Manilans are starting to reap the fruits of their noble effort for the dam now having two sections- the Eco-Park and the Nature Park.

Other than the refreshing picnic grounds, swimming pools, boating lagoons and fishing area to be enjoyed in the La Mesa Dam Eco-Park , there has been a new “play ground” for the urban dwellers to explore and to take challenges in the surrounding La Mesa Dam Nature Park – the 35-kilometer bike trail.

The mini port at the La Mesa Eco Park

By JOHANNES L. CHUA

Standing on a sea of green on a breezy Sunday afternoon seemed like the best way to welcome a New Year. I was at the La Mesa Eco Park a few days into January because I felt I needed some “fresh air” to boost my sagging spirit after the punishing holiday schedule got me sick and exhausted.   Thankfully, I was able to convince my best friend Kenford (or did I bully him?) to drive me to this park, which I said “was just near the Quezon City Memorial Circle.”

The “nearness” of the La Mesa Eco Park will definitely surprise first-time visitors. Kenford, also a first-time visitor, was delighted with the smooth road leading to the park. Since it was a weekend, traffic was very light along Commonwealth Avenue that we were at the park’s entrance 20 minutes after finishing a light merienda in Jollibee Philcoa branch (the one near the entrance of the U.P. Diliman campus).

There were a lot of vehicles in the parking area and I noticed that a number of families were coming in and out of the park’s gate. There was life – in the voices of moms concerned with the safety of their kids who by now are running and laughing, in the way that chairs of different sizes are being dragged and carried, and in the voices asking for food, softdrinks, or utensils (add more laughter here).  This is what a park is all about, I said to myself.  It’s very comfortable that families seemingly treat it as an extension of their home’s dining table.  There’s a constant buzz of activities that will surely put a smile on your lips – or a bit of envy especially if you have not had that kind of bonding experience with your family for a long time.

In the midst of an “orderly” chaos, there was a sense of serenity. The air at La Mesa Eco Park is fresher, the breeze cooler and that time seems to literally take its time.  Even if there are a lot of people around you, you can find a quiet spot inside the very expansive park. You can pause for a while in one of the stone benches, or sit (or even lie down) on a patch of grass – which is what I did.  And in that moment of silence, I relaxed and began to renew my spirit by assessing what I have done in 2009 and what I could accomplish in 2010. It sounds “cheesy” (a new term for being sentimental) but I felt that’s the right thing to do when your mind is clear and there’s no cellphone, youtube, PSP, etc. to distract you.

However, Kenford was more interested in more active activities. We walked further and arrived at a mini port where small boats for rent are docked along a clean river. The water comes from the waters of the La Mesa Dam. On that Sunday afternoon, the sun was softly caressing our skin. The whole scene was picture-perfect (we forgot to bring our digital cameras, which was a bad decision!) and the view reminded us how the beauty of nature has the power to evoke the senses. I was glad that I was “dragged” to that area though I didn’t try out the boat ride.

It was already around 4:30 p.m. but we haven’t totally explored the whole eco park yet. I noticed that the crowds especially in the picnic area were thinning out. And the sound of the forest seemed to reverberate more in our ears. The sun was turning like a mandarin orange hanging in the vast blue sky. The wind is now icier and I just kept myself warm by crossing my arm over my chest.
It was not exactly a spectacular experience but I was glad that I found a place to renew my spirit in this park